Many brands also have excellent ‘how to’ videos to help you get to grips with the different techniques. Retailers and/or a climbing wall with a shop should be happy to chat through the pros and cons of the particular devices they offer.
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You should always have a hand on (and full control over) the ‘brake’ side of the rope and always read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. However, it’s very important to follow the basic principles of belaying, and this is best learnt through expert instruction. All devices have similar actions to give out rope (‘slack’) and take in the rope (‘take in’). In this article, we’ll tell you about the most common belay devices, and then you’ll be able to choose which suits you. Remember, it’s best to try a few devices before you buy. The best device for you depends on several factors, including your own experience, the type of climbing you’ll be doing, what rope you’ll use, and your budget. Others are better suited for using with two ropes as is common in trad or alpine climbing.Ĭlimbers will often have several belay devices, used for the most appropriate situation. Some devices are only suitable for one rope or one activity (for example, sport climbing). However, they all need maintenance and inspection, as they’re a vital part of the climbing safety system. They can also be more high-tech: the size of a fist, with multiple parts, buttons and dials.Īll devices are generally hard-wearing and suitable for a wide range of activities.
Many devices have become quite use-specific, but they all follow the basic principle: the device will help you to control the flow of the rope, and therefore, help you to stop a falling climber.Ī modern belay device (or ‘belay plate’) can be simple: the width of a credit card, with no moving parts and light weight. The range of belay devices has grown exponentially in the last few years, which means there’s plenty to choose from.
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